Did you know that two gels with exactly the same ingredient list can contain raw materials of different purity levels?
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) tells us which substances a product contains, but it does not tell us how pure the raw materials used to manufacture those ingredients are.
In the nail industry, there is a lot of discussion about HEMA-free products, TPO and allergy risks. However, one important quality factor is often overlooked: raw material purity and the processes used to refine it.
1. The Same Ingredient Does Not Mean the Same Quality
For example, two gels may both contain HEMA, but the HEMA used to manufacture them may have different purity levels.
Raw materials can differ in terms of:
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Residual manufacturing substances;
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The amount of unwanted by-products;
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Residual monomers and other impurities;
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Purification processes and quality control.
This is why simply looking at the INCI list is not enough to assess a product's quality.
2. Technical, Cosmetic and Medical Grade
Raw materials are manufactured for different applications, and their quality is assessed according to the requirements of their intended use.
Technical grade is intended for industrial applications. Its purity requirements may not meet the needs of the cosmetics industry.
Cosmetic grade must meet the specifications established for use in cosmetic products. Manufacturers can select raw materials with defined purity specifications and apply additional purification and quality control processes.
Medical grade must meet the requirements of its specific medical application, including biological safety and compatibility assessments where necessary.
Here is an interesting example: HEMA.
In addition to nail products, HEMA is also used in several medical fields:
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Dentistry – in dental adhesive systems and bonding agents.
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Ophthalmology – pHEMA, a polymer made from HEMA, is used to manufacture soft hydrogel contact lenses.
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Wound care – HEMA-based hydrogels have been used in wound dressings and biomaterial development.
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Drug delivery technologies – HEMA-based materials are also being researched for medical applications, for example, to develop eye treatments that release medication gradually and keep it in the eye for longer.
If a person develops an allergy to acrylates or methacrylates, which are also used in nail gels and gel polishes, this may affect the choice of materials used in medical treatment. For example, a dentist needs to be aware of the patient's allergy and may need to select alternative materials.
This does not mean that all dental or other medical treatment becomes impossible. However, the use of certain materials may be restricted.
The consequences of nail product exposure are not necessarily limited to the nails themselves – an allergy may also affect future medical treatment and the choice of materials used in healthcare.
3. Repeated Exposure and Potential Health Risks
Exposure to acrylates and methacrylates can cause various health problems.
Allergic contact dermatitis
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Itching and redness;
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Blisters and skin inflammation;
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Chronic hand eczema;
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Reactions affecting the eyelids, face and neck.
Eye and respiratory irritation
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Eye irritation and watering;
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Nose and throat irritation;
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Coughing and respiratory discomfort;
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Occupational asthma associated with certain chemicals.
4. Does Being Sold in the European Market Automatically Mean the Raw Materials Are High Quality?
No.
Cosmetic products in the European Union are regulated by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which establishes requirements for cosmetic product safety and placing products on the market.
Compliance with European requirements means meeting the standards established by legislation. It does not automatically mean that every raw material used has undergone additional cosmetic-grade purification.
It is important to understand that:
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CPNP notification is not a certificate of raw material purity.
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ISO 22716 demonstrates the application of Good Manufacturing Practices for cosmetics, not the purity level of every raw material.
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European origin does not automatically guarantee additional purification.
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CE marking is not a general quality certification for cosmetic products.
Therefore, it is important to look at what the manufacturer can actually demonstrate about the quality of its raw materials.
5. The Same Principle Applies to Other Cosmetics
The importance of raw material purity can also be understood through examples from other cosmetic products.
Mineral Oil in Face Creams
Mineral oil, also known as Paraffinum Liquidum, is a colourless and odourless oil derived from petroleum. It is a common ingredient in face creams. It forms a protective layer on the skin's surface and helps reduce moisture loss.
Imagine two face creams sold on the European market. Both comply with EU cosmetic regulations, and both list the same mineral oil in their ingredient lists.
One manufacturer chooses mineral oil with a higher purity level that has undergone a more extensive purification process. The other uses raw material with a different purity specification, which also meets the requirements for cosmetic use.
Although both creams list Paraffinum Liquidum in their INCI lists, the raw materials used may differ in their purity specifications and processing.
This demonstrates that being sold on the European market and complying with EU requirements does not automatically mean that all manufacturers use raw materials with the same purity level.
Hair Dyes: Supermarket Products vs. Professional Salon Products
Imagine two hair dyes sold on the European market: one purchased in a supermarket and the other used by a hairdresser in a professional salon. Both products comply with EU cosmetic regulations, but the quality of the raw materials used in their manufacture may differ.
Both may contain the same colouring agents and produce similar colour results. However, the same ingredient name does not necessarily mean the same purity level.
For example, unwanted by-products and manufacturing residues can occur during the production of colourants. Manufacturers can choose raw materials with different purity specifications and apply additional purification and quality control processes.
One manufacturer may therefore choose colourants with a higher purity level and more extensive purification, while another may use raw materials with different specifications that still meet the requirements for cosmetic use.
Both products may be legally sold in Europe, yet the purity of their raw materials and the quality control applied during manufacturing may differ.
Impurities in insufficiently purified raw materials may affect the hair fibre, increase dryness and brittleness, and make hair more susceptible to damage. They may also increase the risk of scalp irritation.
The same principle applies to nail products. Compliance with EU requirements is a necessary foundation, but it does not automatically mean that all products on the market use raw materials with the same purity levels or offer equal quality. Legislation establishes the required standards – manufacturers can go beyond those standards through their choices of raw material quality, purification and quality control.
6. Quality Begins with What You Cannot See
Nail technicians work with these materials every day. We are exposed to airborne dust in the working environment and come into contact with product ingredients. Our clients trust us with their nails and their health.
That is why choosing materials should not be based solely on attractive packaging, a HEMA-free label or the fact that a product is authorised for sale in the European Union.
It is also important to understand the quality of the raw materials used, how they are processed and what the manufacturer can demonstrate about them.
At Aestetica, quality means carefully selected raw materials, controlled formulations, attention to purity and a well-considered manufacturing process. These principles guide the products we choose for our store.
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